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Shimanto-gawa
Temple 39
At Temple 39
At the sex shrine in Uwajima
This town is known for bull fights!
The infamous onsen place of Matsuyama
I sneaked into the temple and took a picture of its inner quarters
My hand is too small!
Me in front of Temple 51
Nakamura
I went to a place called Nakamura in Shikoku. I went to go see some dragonflies and the Shimanto-gawa river, one of the few naturally remaining rivers in Japan. It was a beautiful blue river that started wide and narrowed as it curved into the mountains. I had to cross the river to get to the dragonfly park and museum. The only thing that really pissed me off about Shikoku is its transportation system. There was the JR train that ran around the outermost parts of the island, and it only cut through the island once (this was through the middle). There were some buses, but in the most remote places, the buses ran twice a day, in others 5 times a day. The earliest bus that would take me across the river and to the museum was one at 1pm, and it was around 8:30am when I arrived. I walked and it took about 45 minutes to get across to the park and museum. It totally wasn’t worth it. No wonder the buses didn’t run until 1pm, no one wanted to go. Close to November, they told me there are no more dragonflies (unless I go far across into the mountains). I paid 850 yen to look at dead dragonflies and butterflies from all over the world, and some big fish swimming in their small tanks. I was disappointed, that’s to say the least. But the river was a beautiful view.
Temple 39: えんこうじ
In my henro attire I took the train. The temple was about a 30 minute walk away from the train station, so I was excited. I met a woman on the train, told her I am from NY and studying at Doshisha University. She told me she had a son who has been living in California for 5 years and someone that is close to her went to Doshisha University. Because of this she felt that it was fate that we met. Her name was Nishiyo. She asked me about my plans and I told her I wanted to get on the bus from Sukumo (a town slightly east from where I was currently, a few train stops away) to Urajima (it would take 2 hours or so by bus) to continue my adventure. She gave me her business card, and told me she would drive me to the bus stop after I went to Temple 39. She told me that her son experienced a lot of kindness in the US from strangers and she wanted to return the favor.
So, I gave her my phone number, and started walking straight down the highway. When I came to splits in the road, I pulled out my yellow henro walking guide book for guidance, occasionally asking the locals for directions. As I was walking the henro road, the woman from the train came driving up behind me and gave me a ride to the temple. I was already so close to the temple, but if she didn’t pick me up I would have never gotten on the bus in time.
The reason why I really wanted to go to this temple was because I love turtles, and one of the stamps you receive from this temple is a turtle. Not to mention there is a turtle statue with a big bell mounted on his back that is visible as you walk through the main gate. I rushed through throwing my 5 yen coin in the money basket in front of the temple, and walking in front of a group that was praying loudly together.
Nishiyo drove me to the station and directed me to the bus stop. She even gave me a small present (some powder that you mix with hot water and drink like tea that is from Nara)
Uwajima
I came here for one thing and one thing only. To go to Taga Jinga, a shrine dedicated to fertility, which coincidentally is right next to a sex museum. I asked a guy for directions, and he gave me the most shocked look. It’s almost worth going to this town just to watch people’s reactions as you ask for directions to this forbidden place. The shrine has a huge wooden penis placed right next to the temple, along with some penis statues. I went when sun started to set and it was pretty dark.
This town is also known for dog fights and bull fights, but because it wasn’t tourist season, I didn’t even bother trying to find out the schedule. Most likely there would be nothing going on.
Matsuyama
I finally arrived at Matsuyama well after nightfall. I took the tram to my nights stay: a super cheap place, 2100 yen. And it was atop a small hill so there was a beautiful view of the city. I meant to go to Dogo Onsen that night but was so tired and weary from my travels, and so lost amidst the many onsens all around the area that I walked into the wrong one. It was Dogo Onsen’s sister onsen that I walked into and although it’s the same water, I heard that it’s just not as luxurious. It was the onsen that the locals go to because Dogo is always crowded with tourists. I was exhausted, so I sat in the hot water for about 30 minutes before getting up to leave. Dogo Onsen is famous because long ago the royal family used to take a dip here. Because I knew that Dogo Onsen opened at 6am, the next morning I decided to wake at 6am and take a peaceful dip before all the tourists bombard the area. Even though it was 6am, I was surprised. With their cameras hung around their necks, tourists were already roaming the streets. And although I came to experience Dogo Onsen, in my weary just-woken-up state, I forgot that there were 3 different packages to choose from, and I chose the wrong one and ended up in the simple onsen on the 1st floor instead of the whole deal which includes the luxurious onsen on the 2nd floor, the one with the beautiful tiles along the walls that is raved about.
After I changed into my pilgrimage outfit and set out for the next temple on my list, #51 Ishite-ji. When I got to the place, it was around 7:15am and all was quiet except for the sweeping sounds of the brooms of the women who brushed the fallen leaves aside to make a clear path around the temple. I ventured into places I probably wasn’t supposed to enter. For instance, there was a temple building on the top of a staircase. Although the door to this temple was closed, there was no key and I was curious to see if it would open. Sliding the door, I saw the insides and marveled at the beautiful and colorful paintings on the walls of its interior. So this is what temples are made of, I thought to myself. Discerning by the huge spider webs around the area, I decided that the path I took was not often explored and that made the adventure to the top of this staircase and inside of the temple all the more exciting. I also ventured into the basement located behind one of the temple buildings. It was pretty dark, but not a long passageway, and at the end I was greeted by Buddha statues lined up against the wall in a semicircle fashion. There was also this huge pot where they burned incense that was in the center of this temple complex. I received my Nokyo-cho (stamp and signature by the priest of the temple) in my book and went on my way. I spent too much time leisurely walking around this interesting temple, and so I was forced to run back to the tram to get on the JR train in time. Running with a heavy backpack is not fun.
I really enjoyed the atmosphere of this city. Big but quiet, with a tram service that took you anywhere for 150 yen, it seemed to be just the right mix of nature (with its rolling hills and small mountains) and city.
I went to a place called Nakamura in Shikoku. I went to go see some dragonflies and the Shimanto-gawa river, one of the few naturally remaining rivers in Japan. It was a beautiful blue river that started wide and narrowed as it curved into the mountains. I had to cross the river to get to the dragonfly park and museum. The only thing that really pissed me off about Shikoku is its transportation system. There was the JR train that ran around the outermost parts of the island, and it only cut through the island once (this was through the middle). There were some buses, but in the most remote places, the buses ran twice a day, in others 5 times a day. The earliest bus that would take me across the river and to the museum was one at 1pm, and it was around 8:30am when I arrived. I walked and it took about 45 minutes to get across to the park and museum. It totally wasn’t worth it. No wonder the buses didn’t run until 1pm, no one wanted to go. Close to November, they told me there are no more dragonflies (unless I go far across into the mountains). I paid 850 yen to look at dead dragonflies and butterflies from all over the world, and some big fish swimming in their small tanks. I was disappointed, that’s to say the least. But the river was a beautiful view.
Temple 39: えんこうじ
In my henro attire I took the train. The temple was about a 30 minute walk away from the train station, so I was excited. I met a woman on the train, told her I am from NY and studying at Doshisha University. She told me she had a son who has been living in California for 5 years and someone that is close to her went to Doshisha University. Because of this she felt that it was fate that we met. Her name was Nishiyo. She asked me about my plans and I told her I wanted to get on the bus from Sukumo (a town slightly east from where I was currently, a few train stops away) to Urajima (it would take 2 hours or so by bus) to continue my adventure. She gave me her business card, and told me she would drive me to the bus stop after I went to Temple 39. She told me that her son experienced a lot of kindness in the US from strangers and she wanted to return the favor.
So, I gave her my phone number, and started walking straight down the highway. When I came to splits in the road, I pulled out my yellow henro walking guide book for guidance, occasionally asking the locals for directions. As I was walking the henro road, the woman from the train came driving up behind me and gave me a ride to the temple. I was already so close to the temple, but if she didn’t pick me up I would have never gotten on the bus in time.
The reason why I really wanted to go to this temple was because I love turtles, and one of the stamps you receive from this temple is a turtle. Not to mention there is a turtle statue with a big bell mounted on his back that is visible as you walk through the main gate. I rushed through throwing my 5 yen coin in the money basket in front of the temple, and walking in front of a group that was praying loudly together.
Nishiyo drove me to the station and directed me to the bus stop. She even gave me a small present (some powder that you mix with hot water and drink like tea that is from Nara)
Uwajima
I came here for one thing and one thing only. To go to Taga Jinga, a shrine dedicated to fertility, which coincidentally is right next to a sex museum. I asked a guy for directions, and he gave me the most shocked look. It’s almost worth going to this town just to watch people’s reactions as you ask for directions to this forbidden place. The shrine has a huge wooden penis placed right next to the temple, along with some penis statues. I went when sun started to set and it was pretty dark.
This town is also known for dog fights and bull fights, but because it wasn’t tourist season, I didn’t even bother trying to find out the schedule. Most likely there would be nothing going on.
Matsuyama
I finally arrived at Matsuyama well after nightfall. I took the tram to my nights stay: a super cheap place, 2100 yen. And it was atop a small hill so there was a beautiful view of the city. I meant to go to Dogo Onsen that night but was so tired and weary from my travels, and so lost amidst the many onsens all around the area that I walked into the wrong one. It was Dogo Onsen’s sister onsen that I walked into and although it’s the same water, I heard that it’s just not as luxurious. It was the onsen that the locals go to because Dogo is always crowded with tourists. I was exhausted, so I sat in the hot water for about 30 minutes before getting up to leave. Dogo Onsen is famous because long ago the royal family used to take a dip here. Because I knew that Dogo Onsen opened at 6am, the next morning I decided to wake at 6am and take a peaceful dip before all the tourists bombard the area. Even though it was 6am, I was surprised. With their cameras hung around their necks, tourists were already roaming the streets. And although I came to experience Dogo Onsen, in my weary just-woken-up state, I forgot that there were 3 different packages to choose from, and I chose the wrong one and ended up in the simple onsen on the 1st floor instead of the whole deal which includes the luxurious onsen on the 2nd floor, the one with the beautiful tiles along the walls that is raved about.
After I changed into my pilgrimage outfit and set out for the next temple on my list, #51 Ishite-ji. When I got to the place, it was around 7:15am and all was quiet except for the sweeping sounds of the brooms of the women who brushed the fallen leaves aside to make a clear path around the temple. I ventured into places I probably wasn’t supposed to enter. For instance, there was a temple building on the top of a staircase. Although the door to this temple was closed, there was no key and I was curious to see if it would open. Sliding the door, I saw the insides and marveled at the beautiful and colorful paintings on the walls of its interior. So this is what temples are made of, I thought to myself. Discerning by the huge spider webs around the area, I decided that the path I took was not often explored and that made the adventure to the top of this staircase and inside of the temple all the more exciting. I also ventured into the basement located behind one of the temple buildings. It was pretty dark, but not a long passageway, and at the end I was greeted by Buddha statues lined up against the wall in a semicircle fashion. There was also this huge pot where they burned incense that was in the center of this temple complex. I received my Nokyo-cho (stamp and signature by the priest of the temple) in my book and went on my way. I spent too much time leisurely walking around this interesting temple, and so I was forced to run back to the tram to get on the JR train in time. Running with a heavy backpack is not fun.
I really enjoyed the atmosphere of this city. Big but quiet, with a tram service that took you anywhere for 150 yen, it seemed to be just the right mix of nature (with its rolling hills and small mountains) and city.
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